Small Museum, Big Potential

April 16th, 2019

Another Kansas City museum we visited earlier this year was the Garment District History Museum. It’s currently located in the 800 block of Broadway, in the heart of what was the garment district of the city, but in the coming year will relocate to larger premises in a city cultural park with other museums, but I just couldn’t retain those details as I found myself being rather too generously informed by a female docent with and encyclopedic knowledge garnered over decades of close involvement in the historical society.

Every museum visitor has a slightly different reason for entering and looking around – we always split up and explore museums as individuals, each enjoying our own self-focused approach at our own pace, just sometimes circling back to make sure someone doesn’t miss something special. To me, visiting a museum is a blissful, almost private personal experience. Many good museums, large and small, have wandering knowledgeable docents and security supervisors of whom we are aware, but they keep a discreet if watchful distance, and just sometimes we hope they’ll be able to answer a question or direct us somewhere relevant. I eventually had to escape this lady saying “That’s all so interesting, thank you very much; and now I’d just like to quietly choose and photograph some things to post on my blog.” … walking away before she could renew her invasion of my space. I don’t know why others in our group weren’t paid as much attention as I received, perhaps I was clearly more interested in the garments!

Some wonderful gowns are on show. They would be so much better displayed without the distracting background panels, but that will change, I am sure when the museum moves premises. Below is a detail of the sleeve of the gown on the left.
This figure-hugging deep blue velvet gown, was originally worn as a wedding dress. Sleeves and collar feature devore work in art deco motif style, it was all bias cut, so hung beautifully. Stunning, dramatic.
Green is my favourite colour, and this magnificent gown is by Dior, from his 1947 New Look’ collection (which I appreciate so much more now having seen the Dior exhibition a couple of months after this museum visit) Featuring cinched waist, fuller padded hips, and neckline and sleeves lined with stiffened net for shaping.

Essentially we spent a couple of interesting hours in the two parts of this very interesting museum. Despite the docent’s strong recommendation, I skipped taking a closer a look at the giant needle and thread sculpture which I could see perfectly well from the entrance … it could have been a great photo op., though, maybe next time.

Seemingly just slung on a display rack recycled from a disappeared department store !! There was no date on this hat or any of the others on the rack, from various eras in my 65+years of fashion memory. I always loved these hats from the mid to late 60s. Mum and a couple of wedding guests wore similar ones to our wedding in early 1969. It’s tempting to say ‘tea cosy’, but really it’s an ornate pill box, originally popularised in the mid 60s by Jackie Kennedy.

What is currently on show is just a tiny percentage of the city’s huge collection of garments and accessories, hardly surprising considering that Kansas City’s garment district in its time was second in size and importance only to New York City’s. Quoting from the museum’s website “The Kansas City Museum has one of the largest and best represented collections of clothing materials in the Midwest, including couture gowns, day dresses, uniforms, overalls, shoes, hats, buttons, and everything in between,” Kansas City Museum Director of Collections and Curatorial Services Denise Morrison said. “Additionally, the Museum collection includes examples of many kinds of quilts and coverlets. The enhanced programming opportunities are endless and will strengthen the Museum’s educational impact. We look forward to partnering with other museums and academic institutions to serve students and scholars.”

The amalgamated collections of the city and the society will benefit greatly with the application of modern display methods and well designed educational materials.

From what we saw, this is a typical historical society museum, where so often enthusiasm to share and educate generously outbalances good display principles. ( for example, the backdrop to the green dior gown is so unnecessary and quite distracting) However, hopefully in the hands of experienced curators it will soon be presented in more space using modern museum exhibit standards and techniques, where so often ‘less = more’

Gramado, Brasil, In September!

April 13th, 2019

Recently I was delighted to receive an invitation to teach at The International Festival of Quilt and Patchwork in Gramado, Brasil, the largest such event in South America. Although I have never been to it during the 20+ years it has been running, some of my quilts have gone there for exhibition. I always love teaching people my way of making patchwork without using patterns; that freehand organic-looking patchwork, which since the late 80s has become something of a contemporary tradition, spurred on in part by the Modern Quilt Movement.

When we went to live in Denver Colorado, a neighbour took me along to a local quilt guild meeting, I took some construction classes in american patchwork, joined a bee, and became hooked. While I was there, that great american quiltmaker, Nancy Crow, came to Colorado to teach a 4-day workshop on colour and design in quilt making. At the beginning of her workshop she taught us lay aside our rulers and pins and work freehand as a faster way to get through all the exercises we needed work through. It can be used to add strips and inserts, organic wavy, circular and arc shapes, all of which can add complexity to a design. Though I’ve modified some of her directions, and developed skills and ways of working beyond what she taught us, basically I’ve been piecing this way for about 30 years now, and am always happy to pass on what I know. The one-day classes will be:

(1) beginner improvisational patchwork, learning the basics to enable this level of freehand piecing:

Improvisational piecing beginners learn how to achieve such repeat units.

(2) advanced improvisational piecing, where students learn more complicated levels of making patchwork freehand:

Advanced improvisational piecers learn how to achieve such repeated units in their own designs

I have started taking lessons in Portuguese with view to being able to do the commentary to my demos in the language most students will be speaking !!

Clear Vinyl !

April 4th, 2019

Previously I mentioned I’d brought back some clear vinyl sheeting from my recent visit to Colorado. Look, it’s probably available here in hardware stores, but I haven’t been scouting around for it. The minute I saw it in Denver, I just knew I needed some, because I had been asking the store assistant if they had any faux black patent leather. Those two clauses are related only in that these are both non-conventional materials for an artist of layered quilted fabrics or fabric-like materials. They had no faux patent leather that I discovered and then used in ‘Land Marks’ 2016:

Land Marks 2016


Land Marks, detail – faux patent leather/vinyl, mylar backed ripstop nylon

but said they did have some ‘other vinyl things’, so, drawn irresistibly as a moth to a flame, I went to look, and found this clear vinyl. There were various weights. I chose the thinnest – wisely or not – it is heavier duty than cellophane, but thinner than the stuff used in a see-through makeup bags or one of those tote bags with colourful inner liners.

On Pinterest one recent morning, I clicked a link to someone’s work and though I looked hard just now, I just can’t find it again. Anyway, it was a small fibre construction, a sample I think, and sewn between two clear layers of clear vinyl. Seeing that spurred me to my first experiment with this terrific new stuff – I am so vulnerable to anything shiny!

I learned: (a) I need to find a way to control the evenness of the stitch (paper beneath it prolly) and (b) this has interesting potential as a ‘quiltmaking’ material. (c) Try hand stitch too.

I was reminded of the exhibition of Montevideo artist Lilian Madfes’ 2011 show in which I photographed this work:

I love this very innovative work – it’s not large, maybe a bit under 1m sq., and Lilian was very surprised to hear me say that I regard this as a perfect fit into the definition of ‘a quilt’ in the art quilt world today: “An art quilt is defined by SAQA as “a creative visual work that is layered and stitched or that references this form of stitched layered structure”. The word “references” allows for a broader understanding of the art quilt that welcomes growth and development of individual style.”

That’s all got me thinking, and again trying to mentally get past the visible hanging rod and sleeve thing that I’m perennially stuck on about hanging sheer textile works. (Eyelets? Sleeves?) My view is, if you can’t display them well/effectively, you shouldn’t bother making them at all… Or is that just being so narrow minded as to stifle creativity? Afterall, I could make a heap of these things and put them in a 3-ring binder … it wouldn’t be the first work I’ve presented in a binder:

Mixed media pieces pre-1987. Hand and machine embroidery.

A Packable Souvenir From A Previous Life

April 2nd, 2019

In downsizing from our now-sold house in Perth Western Australia late last year, we made many decisions to ditch (throw into the bulk rubbish removal bin) donate (piles of things went into special donation boxes for delivery to St Vincent De Paul) or keep (boxed up for storage until we buy another place) During the packing by a removal company, we each pulled a couple of things out of the packing ‘line’ to bring back to Uruguay. As a packable souvenir of a previous life, my caftan is a particular treasure.

I remember the day I bought it in a small shop in a Darwin NT arcade. The shop was a new venture and there wasn’t a great deal of stock, but the screen printed large bird totally grabbed me as being different and feeling very Australian; I immediately knew I simply had to buy this. I’ve worn it hundreds of times probably, though it has spent the last couple of decades languishing unused in our house in Perth Australia. Honestly, these days it’s a bit snug around the hips and the upper arms … but I would never ever throw it away, and it’s place in my textile collection is assured.

Tiwi Designs caftan, bought in Darwin, N.Australia, 1976.

These large screen printed birds, storks, are known across northern Australia as Jabiru; however, similar-looking but stockier true Jabiru storks are native to central and south America. This similar bird (but I think nicer, more elegant looking) is more properly called the Black-necked stork – and anyway is known to the Tiwi as the big bird, a simplified version of which is Tiwi Design logo.


Remember, it is years since I actually lived in my own country, so this Tiwi Design caftan prompted me to look up the brand to see how the company was doing, if indeed it it was still ‘there’. I found a lovely website about the art of the Tiwi people on Bathurst Island, just off the city of Darwin, in the Northern Territory.

When I read that fabric printing has been done on (Bathurst) Tiwi Island since 1980, I wrote to them, saying basically ‘I think it was earlier, actually’, and asking permission to publish a pic or two in this post. It was a bit earlier: daily newspapers in 1978 announced that the then Prime Minister’s wife, Tammi Fraser, had had several garments and outfits made up incorporating Tiwi Design printed fabric, to wear at appropriate times during overseas visits.  I always thought that was great, and imagine it was a helpful boost to Tiwi Design’s continuing success.  These days you can take a day trip across to the islands, see the printing being done, and learn something of the history and culture of the people living there.

After many years of being exploited by the tourism industry in particular, and generally having their legal copyrights blithely ignored, Australian Aborigines these days are right on top of the whole issue and have worked long and hard to educate the general public and successfully pursue those who breach intellectual property laws. I asked for and was given permission to use Tiwi Design website images, and my regular readers might not be surprised to find this is one I absolutely relate to:

Fabric available by the metre from Tiwi Design includes this design, though I am not sure who designed it – I particularly relate to its timeless, landscape-y quality. (Image from Tiwi Design website, reproduced with permission)

The Art Of Repairing

March 23rd, 2019
Ceramic bowl repaired using the Japanese kintsugi technique.

When this ceramic bowl broke, instead of being discarded, it was beautifully repaired using an adhesive or lacquer infused with powdered gold. This repair technique is Japanese, and known as ‘kintsugi’. The break lines are highlighted rather than camouflaged, serving to demonstrate the bowl’s importance to its owner. The changed appearance becomes part of it’s history as a functional object. I didn’t learn of kintsugi until some years after I posted about a wonderful exhibition Mike and I saw in Paris in 2007, at the Musee du Quai Branly. Rewording a bit, I’m going to write about Objets Blesses: la reparacion en afrique again here – because it made a huge impact on me. Unforgettable.

The title of the exhibition translates literally as “injured objects” which of course they were: they were broken and then repaired. On show were artifacts collected in several African countries by French colonists, traders, missionaries and explorers. Made from many different materials – wood, iron, precious metals, ceramic, leather, stone – every object in the exhibition had been repaired. None of the objects blesses were repaired using the kintsugi approach of course, but the array of repair techniques was fascinating – apart from images of pieces in the exhibition here on this page I found a wonderful Pinterest board here that I’ve been following for a while.

An impressive array of techniques were used in these repairs, and despite the mending process changing each object’s appearance, these repairs had all restored usefulness of these valued household tools and vessels, weapons, and religious and ceremonial objects symbolising community offices and powers.

Really interesting ridge pattern formed by repair work becomes an additional surface design.

My grandparents survived the Great Depression, where millions of people lost everything suddenly or gradually, and had to mend, make do or go without. Our parents lived with severe shortages and rationing of everything during World War 2. Inevitably, we baby-boomers were ingrained with the values of mending and making do, wearing something out before throwing it out. Thrift was necessary and virtuous. Today, with over 7.5billion people needing, expecting or requiring stuff, all imposing huge stresses on the Earth’s resources, at last there are signs that many people are making real efforts to avoid unnecessary wastage of the planet’s resources by recycling, upcycling and repurposing, though there’s so much more to be done and practiced daily.

One sad reality in the western world is that so much stuff we use cannot just simply be repaired at home if it breaks, and often can’t be affordably fixed by a qualified repair person, either, making it often much cheaper to just buy a replacement for the broken thing. Lots of footwear comes into this category, though I nearly always buy leather, which does last and is nearly always repairable. Of course, worst of all are electrical appliances and digital things like phones and TVs which feature built-in obsolescence, and we suffer frequent model changes that ensure that parts quickly become unavailable. Because of my upbringing this sticks in my throat.

Until I saw this really impressive exhibition, I hadn’t given any real thought to the activity of repairing something. But seeing these objects’ repairs, and reading about them, impressed on me that we repair things that are important or useful to us. We value their usefulness as daily household or work related items; we value objects which symbolise culture, politics, history or religion; some things we value because we simply find them pleasing or beautiful in some way; and sometimes objects are valuable because our ancestors owned and used them.

Repairing produces scars or visible marks, but that’s a very different expected outcome from the process of restoration, in which repairs are done as skillfully as possible to create the impression the object has been returned to its original appearance and function. It hadn’t occurred to me these are not really interchangeable words!

I don’t recall exactly, but think photography might not have been allowed, which would have been one reason I bought the catalogue; but the other would have been “Why the heck not, anyway?” Having bought two additional large suitcases in Cairo to contain textiles we’d acquired in Egypt, including two large Tentmaker hangings , we already had twice as much luggage as we’d set out with just a few weeks before !!

Gold in the lacquer highlights the break lines, producing additional surface design patterning – kintsugi.

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