Served in lost of places, fish seems to appear far more on the menu in Peru than here in Uruguay. The Incas fished the seas, rivers and highland lakes, and were traders of dried fish over long distances. We were presented with lots of vegetables, too. Over 1500 varieties of potato, and over 450 of corn are produced there. We found there always seems to be potato and/or corn in there somewhere at most meals.
You might not be able to tell, but the LR pic is fish in a shallow lake of potato blended with pumkin and cilantro and, well not sure what else, but very yummy – we’ll be doing a version of this at home. It also came with an upturned 1/2 hard boiled egg and a black olive which are no longer evident. Above, in UR, is another piece of fish served on a bed of potato with tomato and  I’m not sure what else blended in with it, but it was fantastic.

The two pics UL and LL are two versions of ceviche, the fresh fish pickled in lemon or lime juice with cilantro and a little chilli basically, and served everywhere it seems. The upper one is covered with masses of fresh onion with slivers of moderately hot chilli peppers; and the lower one came flanked with white beans, lima probably since we were in Lima, plus oven baked corn, and the ceviche in the centre was topped by a mild chilli pepper. A meal in iteslf, although it was listed under ‘entradas’.

The details are wonderful relflections of what is on sale in the daily markets – notice the brooms and basketry objects, small miracles of minature construction; and the hats, jewellery and musical instruments down the left edge of the upper pic.

Lots of people are either shopping, or offering, as one Egyptian market vendor expressed it last year, to “Let me help you spend your money madam!” I have to say, though, the marketing was less directly aggressive. In Egypt I found that vendors would even gently take hold of my arm or wrist to direct my attention or try to make me head in a particular direction. In Peru there was constant verbal pressure sotto voce, and goodness, I would love to have bought up something from every stall, but everyone knows that can’t be.

Over on the right of the lower pic are some of the fruits and vegetables, as heaped up in every general market amongst the household items.

These are major works of the miniaturist’s art, quite up there with other examples like dolls houses or ships in bottles, IMHO. I have never been bitten by the bug, but do appreciate the work of people who love doing this.

Updated November 2024.

While we were visiting Peru (October 2008) I bought this arpillera at the markets in Aguas Calientes, en route to Machu Picchu:

These delightful needlework pieces come in a range of sizes and complexity, and therefore, cost, but to a keen fabric artist like myself, this addition to my collection to walk past and admire every day was worth every peso, whatever it was. I often collect a locally crafted item on my travels, and bought a hand stitched wool table runner in Cuzco that lives on our dining table.

I have seen similar works from Cambodia and Vietnam, and just like this one, the subjects are depictions of aspects of daily life, or flora and fauna of the region.  At the time, I had no idea that arpilleras are social and political statements or expressions of concern, often embroidered by women who had been left in a financially precarious position by modern political movements.  Searching round on Wikepedia I found most information about arpilleras in Chile, but I’m assuming that as there have been many similarities in the history of Peru and Chile, these fabric art pieces have arisen for the same reasons, and under the same kind of social organisation to market them.

Every kind was available, but I thought this one was wonderful. It has not only flat stitchery but many little 3D forms which I’d call stumpwork  Up near the RH cloud in the top picture is sewn the word ‘mercado’ meaning market. Against a backdrop of the clear skies and bold clouds we experienced, a typical building from that part of the Andes, some of the plants, people dancing in indigenous dress, and the llamas you see everywhere is a crowded market scene. 3D fruit and veggies, meats, fabrics, shoes, clothes, sewing notions, flowers, baskets, jewellery, brooms, musical instruments and more, are all crowded onto the market area, just as in real life.

I love the dancing ficures. We went to a musical evening in Cuzco and enjoyed quite a number of folk dances, most of which were along set formation movements, and this is exactly what the figures are doing, accompanied by a pipe player, see upper left edge of this detail shot.

One of the most delightful experiences in this museum in Lima, the Museo Larco, was to be able to go through the museum’s storage area and see the thousands of pieces of precolumbian ceramics that were not currently on display, but just crowded together behind glass, on floor to ceiling shelves, and decorated with every imaginable pattern and texture. Being a lover of pattern and texture this was a visual feast.

UL gives a general impression, masses of embayments like this, with crowded floor to ceiling shelves, daylight coming in from above, and the freedom to wander and enjoy, with not a guard or official in sight anywhere through the museum.
UR Parrots, parrots, parrots.
LL some serious probably important figures or officials
LR showing the wonderful variety of decoration on a selection of bottles or vases – how modern does the black with beige dots look on the upper row of this group?

This was one of several places on our trip that the immensity of Human History suddenly hit me, just as it did up in Macchu Pichu, but I also experienced this take-a-deep-breath-moment standing in front of Bayeux Tapestry, enterering the V&A’s medieval tapestry room, and standing in front of the iconic death mask from Tutenkhamen’s tomb in the Cairo museum.

From the Museo Larco in Lima, a couple of snaps of some of the pieces on display in their room of erotic Inca art.

These might go just as well in some gynaecological exhibit, I’m thinking!