While we were in Panama last year, I found the famous molas and blogged about them here, but we found at that time it wasn’t possible to go to the San Blas islands on a day trip; but we knew we’d be passing through Panama again and I vowed we’d go and stay overnight, as we did just a couple of weeks ago.  There are 400+ islands in the group, and I don’t know how big a piece of land has to be to be counted, but only 49 of them are inhabited.  On one little island (about 3m x 2m)  we saw one small palm tree with a little scrubby vegetation in amongst the rocks; whether coming into or going from existence, in its splendid simple way this brave little one-tree islet reminded me of the one-tree vistas you can see in road or rail transit across Australia’s bare Nullabor Plain.

We landed at Achutupu airport just after sunrise after about 1 hour’s flying ENE from Panama City – the facilities were basic but all there –

and before long we were loaded into a motor boat and bumping through the waves to our lodge on a nearby island.  It was a small hotel, but again, everything was there, with a small admin building, kitchen and dining room, several sheds and just 7 units built out over the water to accommodate 14-20 guests (the number of chairs in the dining room.)

Electricity for refrigeration and hot water heating was generated for only a few hours at night, so of course no TV and no phones.  We charged cameras at night, slept under mosquito nets, and were happy we had kindles with us – the first night we were the only ones there.   Otherwise, lighting was from solar fed battery panels.  So it was very quiet, and allowed the constant sound of the sea to roll on uninterrupted.

Once we were checked in, had had a look around the island and been fed with breakfast, all of which was accomplished in about an hour, we boarded a boat again and travelled about 20 minutes to the island of Achutupu, home to about 1500 Kina inhabitants.  No outsiders.  Since we were the only two visitors our guide was showing around we felt we got a good look at village life, being able to ask questions we had in mind. He was able to explain a lot of the customs and culture to us that might have been skipped through in a noisier larger group of tourists.  We observed Josep’s request to not photograph inside people’s homes (!)  but otherwise were allowed to photograph anything we saw.

I watched a mother cutting the family’s hair out the front of their home, and thought that would make an interesting picture – but asked before snapping and was told I could if I paid $1 per person (there were 4 people) so committed the scene to personal memory, and moved on.

And I bought this mola, too, after the maker agreed to demonstrate how she sews her work.  It’s all by hand of course, and I knew that, what many of us would know as needle-turned applique – each new edge being turned under every few stitches.  She was good and fast, making very small stitches.  The mola features cats, commonly found in designs of both modern and pre-Colombian art – we  presume mountain cats, over on the mainland, since there were very few domestic dogs or cats around.  Notice this lady’s top – a commercially printed fabric in her blouse which at the front includes the inserted mola panel – which interestingly ‘goes’ colourwise – they often don’t ‘go’ in our sense, not that it matters. There are lots of great pics of Indian clothes at this site and in addition to the blouses with mola inserts, they include a printed wrap skirt and for the married women only, arm and leg beads strung and arranged forming a pattern – once on they last about 2 months they told me, then they put on fresh ones.  They said  wearing them didn’t restrict circulation, but a couple of times I noticed women sitting and the beads looked a bit tight to me – still, I guess you’d get used to it. Unmarried female kids wear the kind of thing that our own kids wear, only donning the traditional gear for daily wear once they marry.  Gold nose rings also signify married status.

At our lodge this display of molas was brought out each day, and on day 2 we did find a couple more we loved … and enjoyed a lot of talk with these lovely gentle mannered women.  Note the bands of beads on forearms and around lower legs.  In addition we enjoyed beach walking swimming snorkeling and just lolling in a hammock under the palms, suspended over creamy white sand.  Divinely refreshing for a couple of days, before moving on to several stops in Colombia.  A whole different story.

On the Southern Cross Quilters list this morning a member was telling how she helped a family clear out and dispose of their recently deceased mother’s quilting books and ‘stash’ – the umbrella term for a quilter’s collection of fabrics, and it really includes everything else used to make patchwork quilts, like threads, machine and hand sewing needles.  The lady was obviously a keen hand sewer, as exquisite embroidery patterns and items were mentioned, too.  And then she said there was a shoe box almost filled with hand sewing needles !! Now that would be something!   Clearly this woman had always planned ahead, determined that no shortage, no siege or any other factor relating to ‘needles’ would ever prevent her from continuing a project.  I’m guessing many of them would be very old, and wrapped in that black paper that helps prevent rust. There are still a few needle producing companies that present their product this way – old fashioned, but they tend to be high quality, too.

The whole concept of needles in a packet and planning ahead reminded me of my first shopping for needles here in Uruguay, in about 1998.  I was running low on the few I’d brought over from Australia and would need a new pack of sharps.  Back then, with my limited Spanish and no small amount of bravery, I tracked down a notions shop, a merceria, and managed to convey that I wanted to buy a packet of needles about so-long (imagine hand and finger movements here).     The lady asked “How many?” I replied “One packet please” and she repeated “How many” and added “needles?”    What??? Now, thinking fast on my feet, I said the first number that came into my head , which was three, so, much to my astonishment, three sharps were duly laid out on a small piece of paper which was folded around them and a piece oftape applied to keep it all together.  Things have changed and packets of needles are available even in supermarkets now.  Lots of very interesting little shops have gone, though.

So here’s my very modest stash in Uruguay – I have more but far fewer in Aus – it’s a Girl Guide Be Prepared prepared thing in case I am not able to find the quality and brands I know here – so  I buy a pack or two every time I go back to Aus, along with the Gravox and Vegemite – they’re equally important to me!  Anything else, even decent tea, you can get here.

It took me a while to get this photo and its a bit fuzzy, sorry – perhaps I should have just asked her, but I didn’t like to intrude.  As a ring-wearing jewellery fan myself, I was struck by the precarious situation the ring had on this lean bony finger.  I marveled at this (young) woman’s confidence, knowing from experience how easily  a ring can be lost if one waves a hand suddenly.  I liked the look, though, and I’ve since tried one of my own rings in that position.  I quickly confirmed mine would just drop off while I walked along, or come off unnoticed in a pocket or handbag, or perhaps be thrown out with the rubbish.  Just before our wedding I waved my arm on a beach, and my engagement ring flew off into the dry soft nearby.   After a short search ourselves and with daylight fading,  we obtained torches and help from a couple of nearby campers – and it took over an hour to find it.

Glenys Mann of Fibre Arts Australia is currently presenting a fascinating series of online interviews with fibre/textile artists here Conversations With The Makers

I was recently asked to take part, accepted of course, and thoroughly enjoyed answering her thought provoking questions, skipping a couple as nothing was compulsory.  I assembled some pics to her specifications, and sent it all off.

I’m pleased to announce it went live this week at http://conversations.jigsy.com/alison-schwabe   I hope you enjoy it and the other interviews already there, add the site to your reading lists and watch for more as they appear.